Tuesday 14th September - Madikwe Safari Lodge

A warmer start to the day and a beautiful African sunrise.

ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL SUNRISE

We hadn’t travelled far when Marc picked up the spoor of a Lion pride.  Following the tracks to the Groot Marico River (Big River of Blood) crossing point we soon found the pride of 18 resting by the side of the road.  It was clear from their still blood-stained coats that they had at last been successful with a kill.  Despite their swollen stomachs, many were still painfully thin.  We sat and watched for a long time and then as if on command they rose as one and filed off into the bush.  We drove ahead of them and were able to watch them come down the track towards us looking like soldiers on patrol.  Crossing back over the river a Giant Kingfisher, perched on a tree stump, took flight at our intrusion.

LION PATROL

At the customary “Wobbly Coffee” stop, the men discussed the merits of Land Cruiser suspension whilst the ladies opted for “Bladder control – is it for me ?”

The rest of the morning proved as exciting as the start.  A Kori Bustard strode purposefully past a dozing Black-backed Jackal.  There were sightings of Wahlberg’s Eagle, dazzling Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters, the flash of a Crimson-breasted Shrike, a helmeted African Hoopoe and the courtship display of a pair of African Yellow-billed Hornbills.

COURTING AFRICAN YELLOW-BILLED HORNBILLS

Further on a young White Rhino marched proudly alongside his hugely-built mother and then we had another great encounter with a herd of over 20 Elephant.  This herd had two tiny babies, one barely a week old.  These tiny calves struggled to step down from the bush to cross the road and were patiently and gently ushered forward by their doting mothers.

ELEPHANT CROSSING

The highlight of the morning though, between the Rhino and the Elephant sightings, was a colony of Dwarf Mongoose who darted for cover on our approach but soon entertained us with a fine display of sentry duty.

DWARF MONGOOSE

At lunchtime we made the rarest of sightings; Lindsay-Rea’s Greater Yellow-vented Green-legged Eagle-birdie - indigenous to South Africa but occasional intercontinental migrant.  Instantly recognisable by distended belly, yellow flanks, lime-green tarsus, black tousled crown and raucous “Yar-Yar” call.

RARE LINDSAY-REA EAGLE-BIRDIE

The afternoon drive and our last night drive at Madikwe.  Marc decided to “Go West” onto the high plains.  A Black-backed Kite viewed us disdainfully from his wizened tree stump perch and a Long-tailed Shrike undulated across the track.  Burchell’s Zebra and Impala plucked at the new growth from the burnt and blackened landscape.  A herd of over 10 Elephant grazed in the late evening sun, whilst everywhere small birds darted across the road: Rattling Cisticola, Violet-eared Waxbill and Kalahari Scrub-Robin.

Continuing West a large male Kudu sported fine horns on our way to Thlou Dam.  As we arrived two female elephant and a calf climbed the bank and left the waterhole to a solitary bull Elephant who continued to all but wallow in the mud. As he left, Yellow-throated Sand Grouse and Wood Sandpiper came to take their fill.

MUD BATH

We skirted the dam only to face a confrontation with the bull Elephant who was ambling down the track.  He came within six feet of the land Cruiser before discretion became the better part of valour and we beat a dignified but totally sensible retreat.  As we left the dam a large White Rhino crossed the road in front of us and later, Dr Monica earned a field promotion to “Beast Woman 1^st Class” as she relocated him as the rest of us struggled to find him in the fading light.

CLOSE ENCOUNTERS OF THE ELEPHANT KIND

So off we went into the hills to try and locate or elusive Leopard.  Scrub Hares were in abundance, Impala too, but no sign of our quarry.

Five kilometres from Madikwe Lodge there is a rocky outcrop with a signpost showing “Leopard Rock”.  As we left the road to head back toward camp, a slick body movement with the slightest flick of a tail gave us the sighting we had all been waiting for; LEOPARD !

We cornered the juvenile at the side of the road where he froze in the glare of Marc’s spotlight, looking warily back over his shoulder but giving us just sufficient time to video and photograph him before he was gone, like a phantom into the night.

Back at camp we celebrated in the Boma with a meal of Beef Fillet, Venison Sausage and Chicken in Ginger & Honey.

In three days our Ranger Marc had risen from the rank of Beastman 2^nd Class to “Beastmaster”